aircraft paint remover on rims

Aircraft Paint Remover On Rims - I have some GTA Basketweave wheels that I am polishing (see polishing thread). I read here about all kinds of paint cleaners, what works, what doesn't.

I tried the Yellow Heavy Duty Easy Oven Cleaner Not only did it do nothing for the paint, it discolored the aluminum where it was heavily exposed. Not a big deal - I sanded and polished them anyway, but it took a fair amount of sanding to get the paint off.

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I've used aircraft stripper on cast aluminum before, but wasn't sure if it would discolor or remove the smooth parts. I was also disappointed with its performance It took 2 or 3 applications and still didn't get them all

Painting My 1998 16\

I want it to be nothing I don't want to discolor the aluminum but a small amount won't kill me while sanding/polishing them.

I'm interested in this answer too There are some wheels that I can't get off after several applications of jet paint wiper and wire brush...

I removed the clear from the BMW/BBS 5 style 4 wheel shell to get down to the bare aluminum. I used the jet polisher, applied liberally and kept reapplying until it was fully puffed up. Once I scraped off all the batter with a hard, sharp polypropylene scraper, the bare aluminum wasn't shiny, but it didn't look bad either. I planned to clean up the lip damage and some discoloration where the cleanness had taken off so I sanded / wet sanded / 3M rubber abrasive wheel / wiped and they look great now.

Any chemical stripper will stain the aluminum somewhat, but if you assume you need to polish it, it's not bad.

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Jet remover gel The paint comes in a container as a thinner Much superior to the aerosol type Also one of my guys blew some stuff up in the place "Same plastic as the light switch cover is great. This guy was very reasonable but that doesn't help. I didn't read my polish thread - but the red wheels on a brushed aluminum bike part looks great. me (sorry (if I repost)

Do you know if it is paint or powder? Many lips come powdery and trying to get them off is a miserable pain in the ass process.

I did a set about 12 months ago, and I'm still kicking myself for not paying someone else to blast the stuff, as time goes on and the utilitarians would have done a better job of sanding it.

1) Pour it on and spend as much time as you like spreading it with a brush. The more you wash it, the less it will work

How To Remove Paint From Rims & Wheels: Step By Step

2) Once applied, give it time to work It's tempting to start scratching it too quickly, but be patient

Use walnut shells on the media cabinet This will leave a shiny surface instead of the dull sand of the rough surface

When I was dust-coating wheels for people, I found 80's era Porsche coats and BBS wheels to be the hardest stuff. It will melt into the walnut shell and the glass beads will color it Black beauty worked if you want to spend a few hours per wheel

The method I thought of was to close the coil with an oxy-acetylene torch (propane won't cut it, it just heats the aluminum) and then went into the cabinet with the glass bead.

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I ended up buying a 4/dr drum of straight methylene chloride and soaking the wheels in it for an hour. After that, everything fell apart

Jumper Kay Ball wrote: When I was dustcoating wheels for people, I found Porsche era coats and 80's era wheel BBs to be the hardest stuff. It will melt into the walnut shell and the glass beads will color it Black beauty worked if you want to spend a few hours per wheel

Damon wrote: Do you know if this is paint or powder? Many lips come powdery and trying to get them off is a miserable pain in the ass process. I did a set about 12 months ago, and I'm still kicking myself for not paying someone else to blast the stuff, as time goes on and the utilitarians would have done a better job of sanding it.

I'm not sure if there is paint or dust I'd like to take them apart but I'm not sure I can without really ruining the lips They're also basket weave so it can be hard to keep the media in the hole

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I just need to get them to a point where they will hold the color Not knowing what's inside (and what's baked into it) I'm a little hesitant to clean them up and spray new paint.

Woody wrote: Jumper K Ball wrote: When I was powder coating people's wheels I found that the 80's Porsche and Bibbs wheel coats were the hardest things. It will melt into the walnut shell and the glass beads will color it Black beauty worked if you want to spend a few hours per wheel Porsche Fuchs wheels are partially anodized

Before I could repaint them my media blew It was only $15/each which was totally worth it after having these spoke sandblasted nightmares

How did they do it without hitting the lips That's my problem The lips on these just need sanding and polishing If I've blown them they'll need a load of work to bring them back to their former glory.

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If I pierced them (which I like to do) it should be done without damaging the lips

BTW... just said the local blasting place They want $50 per wheel, no guarantee they won't damage the smooth rim and if they use extra media. There are two others within a 50 mile radius, but they won't because of the police edge

If I do a plane stripper, what kind of chemical surface does it leave? I'm not too flashy or stupid, I mean... is this a good surface to paint on? What I think is; Whatever the plane strip doesn't lift, it's probably stuck enough to paint over, right? I need a good background to color

My main concern is getting new colors in these hubs If I can do this with the striper I'll skip the blaster for now

Remove Paint Overspray From Wheels/part Of Truck Body

If going to a dry blast cabinet, put two layers of masking tape on the edge and blast it. I would do at least two coats and use different colors so if they blasted blue the green underneath would be clear before they got to the metal.

In fact, the top layer can be gorilla tape, or aluminum tape, and taping on a layer of masking tape should clean it up.

You can also dip lip plastic Different colored layers will provide a lot of practical blast protection and probably won't take much time to put on or take off.

I tried to scratch the paint on the mesh wheel so Never again. It was nearly impossible to get into the weave with a scraper to get all the old paint off and my patience was more than enough, especially for a $100 wheel.

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I ended up sanding it black However, I didn't care for the lip polish so I don't have any advice on how to protect it, unless you go the plane strip route, you're in for a bit of trouble.

Edit: Don't bother with the sprayer, you should get metal containers. Make sure you have plenty of protective gear, gloves, respirators, etc., because that stuff is nasty

I found some plane strips I'll try a wheel I also have a cheap media blaster I can try but I'm afraid of how much media ($$$) it will use. I could use baking soda but I have a feeling it wouldn't be aggressive enough Sand is cheap but the masking I used might explode

I think I'll try one with the stripper and some flash media and see what I get.

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Find someone with one of these, pay and come back later As a side benefit they will be nicely polished

Iadr wrote: Oven cleaners are bases (like acids/bases) and therefore not what you need. Aircraft degreaser is an organic chemical base (like a super strong turpentine). By definition mixing doesn't hurt Personally I'm not happy with the idea of ​​burning it I think pushing the wheel towards fatigue in the long run throws some numbers and it doesn't take long to weaken them Did you know there are a lot of aluminum alloys that otherwise they would work well for making rocker arms, but you shouldn't use them because they just lose strength in hot oil temperatures. I would think the 325F plus would burn the paint I had a friend with an IMSA GT3 car, he broke a used wheel Because something

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